Climbing Routes Descriptions

• Manaslu is the 8th highest peak in the world in the remote Gorkha region of Nepal.
• Manaslu is a new challenge, but we found that we can be just as successful as on Cho Oyo, and in our opinion, this is a better training mountain for Everest than Cho Oyo.
• The trek to Base Camp (4,665m) takes about 8/9 days from Kathmandu and is up a steep path passing through rhododendron trees adjacent to spectacular hanging glaciers and rugged icefalls. The Base Camp is in a comfortable position on rock, which is protected from strong winds, but because of its particular location is susceptible to daily snowfalls as the valley cloud happens to condense at this altitude.
• There is a short walk of one hour over loose rock to the snout of the Larkya glacier, where we will make crampon point. It takes 2–3 hours to climb through the sometimes quite broken glacier to Camp 1 (5,500 m). This may require being roped in traditional glacier travel mode, although it may be possible to fix all potentially dangerous crevasse areas. The method of travel may change during the course of the expedition depending on snow conditions. Camp 1 is situated in a comfortable col.
• From here, we climb up towards a massive icefall, but in fact pass underneath this to gain a steep snow slope that will be fixed with rope up to Camp 2 (6,300 m), which is situated in one of the sheltered hollows produced by the series ice cliffs on the route. This is a strenuous day, taking approximately 5–6 hours.
• We put four camps on Manaslu, so the trip from Camp 2 to Camp 3 (6,700m) is not quite so strenuous at 3–4 hours and travels through a series of snow shelves before ascending a steeper snow slope to reach a large col with spectacular views of the surrounding peaks.
• From here, the route goes directly up the steeper northeast slopes, passing through a series of short ice bulges to reach an upper snow slope, which leads to a traverse to Camp 4 (7,300m), 4–5 hours.
• The summit, which has been elusive since Samagon, is deceptively close. However, it is still a long day up rolling snow slopes, with short, steep sections at times, and this could be in deep snow. Just below the true summit, at 5–6 hours, there is a comfortable place to stop and is where many people do stop. It is the intention to have enough rope, oxygen and time to push a fixed line up the last corniced, unstable ridge, so long as this is safe at the time. Although this is only 50m vertically and 150m horizontally, this will take about one to one and a half hours, return.
• The descent is fast and easy, reaching Camp 4 in 1–2 hours. It is best to return to Camp 2 on the same day, another 2–3 hours for a well-earned rest. With a late start from Camp 2, it is possible to be back at Base Camp for a late lunch.
• It will take 1–2 days to clear the mountain of camps before the descent to Samagon, we must allow for 5 – 7 days of duration to trek back to KTM. If by Helicopter from Sama Goan to KTM, it takes 1 ¼ hour flight directly back to Kathmandu is an exhilarating experience.

Expedition Highlights

• Experience 8th highest peak and and technically easy but physiologically challenging climb
• Stunning views of some of the highest mountain on earth including Mt. Everest, Mt. Dhaulagiri, Mt. Annapurna, and many more.
• Climb shoulder to shoulder with some of our veteran climbing sherpas who have at least climbed Everest few times.
• Test of skills and physiology for Everest attempt in the future.
• Experience your first 8000m climb on relatively safe route
• Test for psychological endurance
• Explore the Sherpa villages, meet the Sherpa people, and witness the unique Buddhist cultures by visiting some old monasteries.

Is it right for me?
Fitness

To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter-walker-climber in good health. Prior to joining our group, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude, and also for exotic locales.

Experience

Previous mountaineering experience is required to at least 6000m. You will also need to be very determined. Dhaulagiri is a non-technical peak with the possibility of a ski descent for VERY strong skiers. Ski touring in the area near ABC is also possible (and a fun way to acclimatise).

To succeed you will need to be extremely fit and have a high level of endurance. You don’t need to be fast but you need to be steady and strong. Mental toughness plays a large role as does the ability to relax and let your body acclimatise.

Why go with Triumph Expeditions?
Our style

On this Manaslu expedition, your expedition leader will be a qualified Nepalese mounaineering guide. They are there to ensure your expedition a wonderful, fun and safe experience.

Your accomplished and friendly expedition guide will help you at all time to climb this mountain safely. Measurement of safety is our foremost priority.

The expedition will be well planned, well led, and well resourced with good quality food, transport, equipment, first aid and communications.

The expedition itinerary is well planned, well led, and well resourced with good quality food, transport, equipment, first aid and communications.

Accommodation and Food

In Kathmandu: We will be staying at the Shanker Hotel (4 star). This charming historic palace has a huge peaceful garden with a pool and is just on the edge of the main tourist area, Thamel.

It is safe and clean and well staffed, and is a safe place to leave your clean town clothes and other gear when you are in the hills. There are many restaurants in Kathmandu catering to western tastes as well as plenty of local Dahl Bhat (rice and lentils) shops at very reasonable prices.

On the Trek: We will enjoy full camping style service (cook, kitchen hands, morning tea to your tent door, camp sherpas to help with equipment, porters, yaks etc). Some of our head cook has been with us since 1995 and has picked up Thai curries, Italian pastas and a whole host of other dishes, which are very welcoming at the end of a good days trekking. We also have cooked breakfasts and cooked lunches where possible.

On the Mountain: We will use specialised mountaineering tents for our brief stays up high. Food will be prepared by your guide and Sherpas and will be more basic than you might expect at home.

When to go?

Autumn season (Sept-Nov) being the best season for climbing peaks, offers excellent weather and tantalizing mountain views, and also best season for peak climbing. Recommended season for Manaslu Expedition.

Summer months (June-September) of the year which coincides with monsoon begins in mid-June and drains in mid-September making travel wet and warm. The mountain views may not be at their best as rain clouds and haze over hang the mountains occasionally obscuring the enchanting views. These times are blessed for the keen botanist as the higher valleys and meadows blossom with flowers and lush vegetation.

Spring season (March-May) is the expedition season and the best time for climbing the high peaks. It is mildly warm at lower elevations but occasional haze mars beautiful view of mountains. At higher elevations over 4,000 meters the mountain views are excellent and the temperature is quite moderate even at night. Recommended season for Manaslu Expedition.

Winter season (December-February) is noted for cold weather with occasional snowfall at higher elevations. Again, excellent views are common. These months are popular and ideal for trekking for those who are well equipped or who remain at lower elevations below 3,000 meters. Most of the hotel owners will come to the lower altitude cities like Kathmandu and Pokhara.

Currency

The unit of the Nepalese Currency is Rupee. One Nepali Rupee is made up of 100 paisa. Nepali Rupee notes come in Rs. 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 25, 50, 100, 500 and 1,000. Coins come in paisa 5,10,25,50 Rs. 1, 2, 5 denominations. Paisa coins are not currently used for common transactions.

Foreign currency, and traveler cheques, can easily be exchanged at banks or authorized agents. In Kathmandu banks have money exchange counters, which are quick and convenient.

MasterCard, Visa and American Express are accepted at all major Hotels, Travel Agencies, Restaurants and Stores. Only the first two though, are currently accepted at banks for money advances. As from august 2000 ATM services are available in Kathmandu.

In the cities, and specially while trekking, change for Rs500 and Rs1000 bills is not easily available.

Banking

Banks are open between 10:00 A.M. to 2:30 p.m., Sunday to Thursdays and between 1 0:00 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. on Fridays. Closed on Saturdays and national holidays. Some Banks in Thamel, Kathmandu are open till late.

Travel Insurance

We recommend cancellation insurance to protect your investment. We require participants to have travel insurance that covers medical expenses, Chopper evacuation and repatriation. Please ensure that your chosen policy provides cover for the activities (trekking and mountaineering with ropes and guides) and in the localities in which you will travel (Nepal, to elevations up to 8163m/26781ft above sea level).

You may already have your own policy but if not you will need to put something in place. Your nationality will determine what options are available to you to cover this trip. For example the British and New Zealand Mountaineering Clubs provide cover for locals; Australians can look into Insure for less with the appropriate extensions to the standard policy. Whatever policy you take out, you must ensure that is covers the activities you will undertake on this trip.

Illness & Evacuation

Most of our adventures in the Himalaya take us to remote regions of high altitude. We always take our time to acclimatize properly and we allow for additional rest days. While most people may experience minor ill effects from high altitudes, there are some who have persistent symptoms, which require return to a lower altitude or emergency evacuation. Adjusting to a new diet can also take some time.

All clients are required to have travel insurance covering emergency rescue, usually by helicopter. We must stress that this kind of evacuation occurs in a life or death situation only. Rest and/or descent to a lower altitude are the best remedies for most illnesses experienced out on the trail. Circumstances differ, and the head guide with regard to treatment and itinerary will evaluate each situation. Considering the ill person condition, if helicopter evacuation required then just co ordinate with your guide, he can talk to us, we will arrange the fastest evacuation system immediately. We will work with you to accommodate your needs and requests to the best of our ability. There are small, limited health clinics in some areas, hours of operation dependent upon the season. Additional costs incurred in cases of illness are not the responsibility of mine or will be charged as extra cost.