CLIMBING ROUTE & HIGH CAMPS

By the time we reach at base camp, our climbing leaders and Sherpa will be well on the way to having the lower part of the mountain (the Khumbu Ice Fall) already fixed with ropes and ladders. We will establish four camps on the mountain. The first, at 19,500ft, is situated at the top of the ice fall. This camp functions as an intermediate camp until Camp II (advanced base camp) is established at 21,000ft. Camp II will consist of large tents for cooking and dining and several smaller tents for sleeping. Camp II will be our base during the placements of Camp III and Camp IV (23,500ft and 25,912ft respectively). Camp III, which stands at the head of the cirque on the Lhotse face, will consist of three and four man tents. This camp serves as an intermediate camp which climbers will use to reach Camp IV (high camp) on the South Col. Most of our Sherpa are able to carry directly from Camp II to Camp IV, so large amounts of gear are not needed at Camp III to establish Camp IV. Oxygen will be used above Camp III to help aid climbers in reaching high camp before attempting the summit. From Camp IV, we travel along the South East Ridge to the South Summit. From here we traverse for a few hundred meters before reaching the Hillary step and then onto the main summit.

Camp I – 5,945 meters

After the Icefall, the climbers arrive at Camp I, which is located at 19,500 feet. Depending on the type of expedition, Camp I will either be stocked by the climbers as they ascend and descend the Icefall or by Sherpas in advance. The area between Camp I and Camp II is known as the Western Cwm. As the climbers reach Camp II at 21,000 feet, they may be temporarily out of sight of their support at Base camp. Nonetheless, modern communication devises permit the parties to stay in contact.

Camp II – 6,402 meters

As the climbers leave Camp II, they travel towards the Lhotse face (Lhotse is a 27,920 foot mountain bordering Everest). The Lhotse face is a steep, shiny icy wall. Though not technically extremely difficult, one misstep or slip could mean a climber’s life. Indeed, many climbers have lost their lives through such mishaps.

Camp III – 23,500 feet (7,164 meters)

To reach Camp III, climbers must negotiate the Lhotse Face. Climbing a sheer wall of ice demands skill, strength and stamina. It is so steep and treacherous that many Sherpas move directly from Camp II to Camp IV on the South Col, refusing to stay on the Lhotse Face.

Camp IV – 26,300 feet (8000 meters)

As you’re leaving C4…it’s a little bit of a down slope, with the uphill side to the left. There are typically snow on the ledges to walk down on, interspersed with rock, along with some fixed rope. The problem with the rope is that the anchors are bad, and there’s not much holding the rope and a fall could be serious. Fortunately it’s not too steep, but there is a ton of exposure and people are usually tired when walking down from camp. The rock is a little down sloping to the right as well, and with crampons on, it can be bit tricky with any kind of wind. There’s a little short slope on reliable snow which leads to the top of the Geneva Spur, and the wind pressure gradient across the spur can increase there as you’re getting set up for the rappel. Wearing an oxygen mask here can create some footing issues during the rappel, because it’s impossible to see over the mask and down to the feet. For that reason, some people choose to leave Camp 4 without gas, as it’s easier to keep moving down the Spur when it’s important to see all the small rock steps and where the old feet are going. Navigating down through all of the spaghetti of fixed ropes is a bit of a challenge, especially with mush for brains at that point. One lands on some lower ledges which aren’t so steep, where fixed ropes through here are solid. At this point, it’s just a matter of staying upright, and usually, the wind has died significantly after dropping off the Spur. The route turns hard to the left onto the snowfield that leads to the top of the Yellow Bands.

Camp IV, which is at 26,300 on the Lhotse face, is typically the climbers’ first overnight stay in the Death Zone. The Death Zone is above 26,000 feet. Though there is nothing magical about that altitude, it is at this altitude that most human bodies lose all ability to acclimate.

Accordingly, the body slowly begins to deteriorate and die – thus, the name “Death Zone.” The longer a climber stays at this altitude, the more likely illness (HACE – high altitude cerebral edema – or HAPE – high altitude pulmonary edema) or death will occur. Most climbers will use oxygen to climb and sleep at this altitude and above. Generally, Sherpas refuse to sleep on the Lhotse face and will travel to either Camp II or Camp IV.

Camp IV is located at 26,300 feet. This is the final major camp for the summit push. It is at this point that the climbers make their final preparations. It is also a haven for worn-out climbers on their exhausting descent from summit attempts (both successful and not). Sherpas or other climbers will often wait here with supplies and hot tea for returning climbers.

From Camp IV, climbers will push through the Balcony, at 27,500 feet, to the Hillary Step at 28,800 feet. The Hillary Step, an over 70 foot rock step, is named after Sir. Edmond Hillary, who in 1953, along with Tenzing Norgay, became the first people to summit Everest. The Hillary Step, which is climbed with fixed ropes, often becomes a bottleneck as only one climber can climb at a time. Though the Hillary Step would not be difficult at sea level for experienced climbers, at Everest’s altitude, it is considered the most technically challenging aspect of the climb.

SUMMIT ATTEMPTS

After Camps III and IV are established and all our supplies are in place, we return to Base Camp for a rest. At Base Camp we will organize our summit teams and prepare ourselves for summit attempts. Once we are ready, we return to Advanced Base. If good weather prevails we move the summit team to Camp III, on day 2/3. Day 3/4 will be summit day for the team. They will start very early that morning and attempt to reach the summit before mid-day. After the summit, they retreat back to the Camp IV and on to Camp III. Next day the team will back to camp II & base camp.

As always, weather plays a major part in all actual summit attempts. We will try as many summit attempts as safely possible as our goal is to put the maximum number of people on the summit. Guides and Sherpa will accompany all summit attempts and oxygen will be used.

Summit – 29,028 feet (8848 meters)

Once the climbers ascend the Hillary Step, they slowly and laboriously proceed to the summit at 29,028 feet. The summit sits at the top of the world. Though not the closest place to the sun due to the earth’s curve, it is the highest peak on earth. Due to the decreased air pressure, the summit contains less than one third of the oxygen as at sea level. If dropped off on the summit directly from sea level (impossible in reality), a person would die within minutes. Typically, climbers achieving the great summit will take pictures, gain their composure, briefly enjoy the view, and then return to Camp IV as quickly as possible. The risk of staying at the summit and the exhaustion from achieving the summit is too great to permit climbers to fully enjoy the great accomplishment at that moment.

Expedition Highlights

• Climb with one among the top 5 Mountaineering expedition organizing company in the Himalayas (30% of the total Everest expedition in the year 2010 was logistically organized by Triumph Expeditions, and 85% success oriented that year with no any tragic incidents)
• Climb the world’s highest peak, Mt. Everest
• Climb Mt. Everest from the South side Normal route
• Climb Mt Everest with experienced Sherpa Guides and climbing sherpas, who have climbed Everest more than 10 times.
• Experience the unique culture of the Sherpa people.
• Expert & experienced Cooking Crews during the expedition
• Nice, Friendly & Comfortable logistic arrangements
• Best quality logistics through out the expedition.

Is it right for me?

Fitness

To reach the summit of Everest (29,035’/8850m) you must be in top physical, emotional, and psychological condition. Benchmarks for physical conditioning include successful previous trips above 20,000′ whenever possible, during which you will have gained experience dealing with gear and equipment, handling extremely cold temperatures and extreme altitude, gaining solid cramponing skills both on and off rock, snow and ice, rappelling with a pack on, and using ascenders and jumars on a fixed line. In addition to solid alpine living, snow, and ice climbing skills, you need significant strength endurance, high-altitude tolerance, and strong cardiovascular conditioning.

Experience

We are looking for experienced climbers, for whom Everest is the next logical step in their climbing careers. Our team will be in top physical condition and ready to meet the extreme challenges Everest presents. If at all possible, we request that potential Everest climbers participate in one of our other domestic or international climbs. More over the participant must have the knowledge about the previous mountaineering expedition including the mountaineering skill development basic & advance trainings plus well shill to use climbing hard wear gears such as crampons, jumars, prussiks, abseiling. Moving past knots, anchors etc.

It is important that a team member be able to work well with people and be willing to commit to a group effort which will last for several weeks. You will be exposed to a completely different culture during the expedition. Being the expedition team member, it is your responsibility to treat the people and their environment with respect. This ability is as important as your climbing skills. Our object is successful & safety summit attempt, some time on the tough climbing days, you may think, you have been away from home for an extended period of time is highly important. Be determined to finish what you have begin, trained for and set as a goal. Mountains are beautiful places but not every minutes of every day is sunshine & roses. Therefore while on the climbing the mountains focus on your goal & try to be mentally free. Our sherpa support look after your requirements & guide you but you need to be honest and realistic with yourself and your team members.

Accommodation and Food

In Kathmandu: We will be staying at the Shanker Hotel (4 star). This charming historic palace has a huge peaceful garden with a pool and is just on the edge of the main tourist area, Thamel.

It is safe and clean and well staffed, and is a safe place to leave your clean town clothes and other gear when you are in the hills. There are many restaurants in Kathmandu catering to western tastes as well as plenty of local Dahl Bhat (rice and lentils) shops at very reasonable prices.

On the Trek: We will stay in lodges before getting to the Base camp and enjoy full camping style services onwards (cook, kitchen hands, morning tea to your tent door, camp sherpas to help with equipment, porters, yaks etc). Some of our head cook has been with us since 1995 and has picked up Thai curries, Italian pastas and a whole host of other dishes, which are very welcoming at the end of a good days trekking. We also have cooked breakfasts and cooked lunches where possible.

On the Mountain: We will use specialized mountaineering tents for our brief stays up high. Food will be prepared by your guide and Sherpas and will be more basic than you might expect at home.

When to go?

Autumn season (Sept-Nov) being the best season for climbing, offers excellent weather and tantalizing mountain views, and also best season for peak climbing.

Summer months (June-September) of the year which coincides with monsoon begins in mid-June and drains in mid-September making travel wet and warm. The mountain views may not be at their best as rain clouds and haze over hang the mountains occasionally obscuring the enchanting views. These times are blessed for the keen botanist as the higher valleys and meadows blossom with flowers and lush vegetation.

Spring season (March-May) is the expedition season and the best time for climbing the high peaks. It is mildly warm at lower elevations but occasional haze mars beautiful view of mountains. At higher elevations over 4,000 meters the mountain views are excellent and the temperature is quite moderate even at night. Spring season is known to be the Everest season.

Winter season (December-February) is noted for cold weather with occasional snowfall at higher elevations. Again, excellent views are common. These months are popular and ideal for trekking for those who are well equipped or who remain at lower elevations below 3,000 meters. Most of the hotel owners will come to the lower altitude cities like Kathmandu and Pokhara.

Currency

The unit of the Nepalese Currency is Rupee. One Nepali Rupee is made up of 100 paisa. Nepali Rupee notes come in Rs. 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 25, 50, 100, 500 and 1,000. Coins come in paisa 5,10,25,50 Rs. 1, 2, 5 denominations. Paisa coins are not currently used for common transactions.

Foreign currency, and traveler cheques, can easily be exchanged at banks or authorized agents. In Kathmandu banks have money exchange counters, which are quick and convenient.

MasterCard, Visa and American Express are accepted at all major Hotels, Travel Agencies, Restaurants and Stores. Only the first two though, are currently accepted at banks for money advances. As from august 2000 ATM services are available in Kathmandu.

In the cities, and specially while trekking, change for Rs500 and Rs1000 bills is not easily available.

Exchange Rates

Nepal’s currency is set at a fixed exchange rate with the Indian Rupee. 100 Indian Rupees = 160 Nepali Rupees. The US dollar is about US$ 1 = NRs 84 (16 May 2013).

Day to day foreign currency exchange rates are published in local English daily newspapers such as The Rising Nepal and The Kathmandu Post.

Click for Exchange Rate Today.

Banking

Banks are open between 10:00 A.M. to 2:30 p.m., Sunday to Thursdays and between 10:00 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. on Fridays. Closed on Saturdays and national holidays. Some Banks in Thamel, Kathmandu are open till late.

Travel Insurance

We recommend cancellation insurance to protect your investment. We require participants to have travel insurance that covers medical expenses, Chopper evacuation and repatriation. Please ensure that your chosen policy provides cover for the activities (trekking and mountaineering with ropes and guides) and in the localities in which you will travel (Nepal, to elevations up to 8,201m/26906ft above sea level).

You may already have your own policy but if not you will need to put something in place. Your nationality will determine what options are available to you to cover this trip. For example the British and New Zealand Mountaineering Clubs provide cover for locals; Australians can look into Insure for less with the appropriate extensions to the standard policy. Whatever policy you take out, you must ensure that is covers the activities you will undertake on this trip.

Illness & Evacuation

Most of our adventures in the Himalaya take us to remote regions of high altitude. We always take our time to acclimatize properly and we allow for additional rest days. While most people may experience minor ill effects from high altitudes, there are some who have persistent symptoms, which require return to a lower altitude or emergency evacuation. Adjusting to a new diet can also take some time.

All clients are required to have travel insurance covering emergency rescue, usually by helicopter. We must stress that this kind of evacuation occurs in a life or death situation only. Rest and/or descent to a lower altitude are the best remedies for most illnesses experienced out on the trail. Circumstances differ, and the head guide with regard to treatment and itinerary will evaluate each situation. Considering the ill person condition, if helicopter evacuation required then just co ordinate with your guide, he can talk to us, we will arrange the fastest evacuation system immediately. We will work with you to accommodate your needs and requests to the best of our ability. There are small, limited health clinics in some areas, hours of operation dependent upon the season. Additional costs incurred in cases of illness are not the responsibility of mine or will be charged as extra cost.