Mt Dhaulagiri Expedition

Mt Dhaulagiri Expedition

  • ALTITUDE – 8,167m/26,794ft
  • SIZE – 12 (FLEXIBLE FOR PRIVATE GROUPS)
  • TRIP START/END – KATHMANDU
  • TRIP Best Season – Spring/Fall season
  • Trip Duration – 45 Days

Overview

Mt. Dhaulagiri (8,167m/26,794.6ft), the White Mountain was first climbed by the Swiss in 1960. Its name is derived from Sanskrit “Dhavala- means white” and giri is mountain – The White Mountain. It is an enormous Himalaya massif located in the North Central Nepal. It was first sighted by the British surveyors in India in the early 1800s and it remained as highest peak in the world till 1848 AD. Later it was mapped by one of the secret Indian surveyors in 1873 AD. But the region remained largely unknown until a Swiss aerial survey in 1949. The French Annapurna Expedition, led by Mr. Herzog in 1950, had permission to climb either Dhaulagiri or Annapurna…

Expedition Highlights

Experience 8th highest peak and technically easy but physiologically challenging climb
Stunning views of the Dhaulagiri massif.
Accessible 8000m climb Himalayan climb and test of skills and physiology for Everest attempt
Experience your first 8000m climb on relatively safe route
Test for mountaineering isolation and psychological endurance
Exploring Thakali village and old monasteries, Apple orchards, observing beautiful background of mountain desert (Mustang) and Dolpo range, different community with majority of Magar, Bramhin and Thakali.

Expedition Highlights

  • Experience 8th highest peak and technically easy but physiologically challenging climb
  • Stunning views of the Dhaulagiri massif.
  • Accessible 8000m climb Himalayan climb and test of skills and physiology for Everest attempt
  • Experience your first 8000m climb on relatively safe route
  • Test for mountaineering isolation and psychological endurance
  • Exploring Thakali village and old monasteries, Apple orchards, observing beautiful background of mountain desert (Mustang) and Dolpo range, different community with majority of Magar, Bramhin and Thakali.

Is it right for me?
Fitness

To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter-walker-climber in good health. Prior to joining our group, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude, and also for exotic locales.

Experience

Previous mountaineering experience is required to at least 6000m. You will also need to be very determined. Dhaulagiri is a non-technical peak with the possibility of a ski descent for VERY strong skiers. Ski touring in the area near ABC is also possible (and a fun way to acclimatise).

To succeed you will need to be extremely fit and have a high level of endurance. You don’t need to be fast but you need to be steady and strong. Mental toughness plays a large role as does the ability to relax and let your body acclimatise.

Why go with Triumph Expeditions?
Our style

On this Dhaulagiri Expedition, your Expedition guide will be a qualified Nepalese mountaineering guide. They are there to ensure your expedition a wonderful, fun and safe experience. Measurement of safety is our foremost priority. Most of our climbing guide and climbing sherpas are very well trained and have at least climbed Mt. Dhaulagiri, Mt. Everest, and other renowned mountains few times.

Your accomplished and friendly expedition guide will help you to enjoy and appreciate the cultural, and natural attractions of the region. They will assist with daily arrangements as you eat in and stay in the tents. The package uses a steady acclimatisation program and allows time for bad weather along the way, giving participants the maximum chance of success.

The expedition itinerary is well planned, well led, and well resourced with good quality food, transport, equipment, first aid and communications.

Accommodation and Food

In Kathmandu: We will be staying at the (4 star) Hotel.

It is safe and clean and well staffed, and is a safe place to leave your clean town clothes and other gear when you are in the hills. There are many restaurants in Kathmandu catering to western tastes as well as plenty of local Dahl Bhat (rice and lentils) shops at very reasonable prices.

On the Trek: We will stay in lodges for some of the trip and will also enjoy full camping style service (cook, kitchen hands, morning tea to your tent door, camp sherpas to help with equipment, porters, yaks etc). Some of our head cook has been with us since 1995 and has picked up Thai curries, Italian pastas and a whole host of other dishes, which are very welcoming at the end of a good days trekking. We also have cooked breakfasts and cooked lunches where possible.

On the Mountain: We will use specialised mountaineering tents for our brief stays up high. Food will be prepared by your guide and Sherpas and will be more basic than you might expect at home.

When to go?

Autumn season (Sept-Nov) being the best season for climbing Mt. Dhaulagiri, offers excellent weather and tantalizing mountain views, and also best season for peak climbing.

Summer months (June-September) of the year which coincides with monsoon begins in mid-June and drains in mid-September making travel wet and warm. The mountain views may not be at their best as rain clouds and haze over hang the mountains occasionally obscuring the enchanting views. These times are blessed for the keen botanist as the higher valleys and meadows blossom with flowers and lush vegetation.

Spring season (March-May) is the expedition season and the best time for climbing the high peaks. It is mildly warm at lower elevations but occasional haze mars beautiful view of mountains. At higher elevations over 4,000 meters the mountain views are excellent and the temperature is quite moderate even at night.

Winter season (December-February) is noted for cold weather with occasional snowfall at higher elevations. Again, excellent views are common. These months are popular and ideal for trekking for those who are well equipped or who remain at lower elevations below 3,000 meters. Most of the hotel owners will come to the lower altitude cities like Kathmandu and Pokhara.

Although Travel in Nepal can be organized throughout the year, October through May is considered to be the best months for trekking.

Currency

The unit of the Nepalese Currency is Rupee. One Nepali Rupee is made up of 100 paise. Nepali Rupee notes come in Rs. 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 25, 50, 100, 500 and 1,000. Coins come in paisa 5,10,25,50 Rs. 1, 2, 5 denominations. Paisa coins are not currently used for common transactions.

Foreign currency and traveller cheques can easily be exchanged at banks or authorized agents. In Kathmandu, banks have money exchange counters, which are quick and convenient.

MasterCard, Visa and American Express are accepted at all major Hotels, Travel Agencies, Restaurants and Stores. Only the first two though, are currently accepted at banks for money advances. As from August 2000 ATM services are available in Kathmandu.

In the cities, and specially while trekking, change for Rs500 and Rs1000 bills are not easily available.

Banking

Banks are open between 10:00 A.M. to 2:30 p.m., Sunday to Thursdays and between 10:00 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. on Fridays. Closed on Saturdays and national holidays. Some Banks in Thamel, Kathmandu are open till late.

Travel Insurance

We recommend cancellation insurance to protect your investment. We require participants to have travel insurance that covers medical expenses, Chopper evacuation and repatriation. Please ensure that your chosen policy provides cover for the activities (trekking and mountaineering with ropes and guides) and in the localities in which you will travel (Nepal, to elevations up to 8,167m/26794ft above sea level).

You may already have your own policy but if not you will need to put something in place. Your nationality will determine what options are available to you to cover this trip. For example the British and New Zealand Mountaineering Clubs provide cover for locals; Australians can look into Insure for less with the appropriate extensions to the standard policy. Whatever policy you take out, you must ensure that is covers the activities you will undertake on this trip.

Illness & Evacuation

Most of our adventures in the Himalaya take us to remote regions of high altitude. We always take our time to acclimatize properly and we allow for additional rest days. While most people may experience minor ill effects from high altitudes, there are some who have persistent symptoms, which require return to a lower altitude or emergency evacuation. Adjusting to a new diet can also take some time.

All clients are required to have travel insurance covering emergency rescue, usually by helicopter. We must stress that this kind of evacuation occurs in a life or death situation only. Rest and/or descent to a lower altitude are the best remedies for most illnesses experienced out on the trail. Circumstances differ, and the head guide with regard to treatment and itinerary will evaluate each situation. Considering the ill person condition, if helicopter evacuation required then just co ordinate with your guide, he can talk to us, we will arrange the fastest evacuation system immediately. We will work with you to accommodate your needs and requests to the best of our ability. There are small, limited health clinics in some areas, hours of operation dependent upon the season. Additional costs incurred in cases of illness are not the responsibility of mine or will be charged as extra cost.

Itenary

  • Day 01 – Arrival in Kathmandu/transfer to hotel

    Arrive in Tribhuwan International Airport and so transfer to the Hotel. you may be transferred by our representative. you’ll get pleasure from the remainder time on your own socialisation in new town and atmosphere.

  • Day 02 – Shorting out expedition store and preparation for the expedition

  • Day 03 – Morning preparation

  • Day 04 – Fly to Jomsom. Rest for acclimatization

  • Day 05 – Trek to Kagbeni

    Deep into the Annapurna Himal for a fantastic close-up read of the Himalaya. Short treks on the Kali Gandaki reveal the lifetime of the Thakhali create this space their home and from Kagbeni peek north towards the long-forbidden Kingdom of pony.

  • Day 06 – Day hike to Muktinath, back to Jomsom

    Led by Thakhali or Tibetan men, the lead horses square measure adorned with wondrous plumes and headdresses and also the melodious sound of their bells may be a constant companion. The temple of Muktinath, though dedicated to Vishnu, is sacred to each Hindu and Buddhist and lots of ascetic sadhus gather here.

  • Day 07 – Trek to Yak Kharka via Alu bari

    The path from Yak Kharka (4035 m asl) rises solely slowly through Thorong Khola natural depression up to the bottom camp in Thorong Phedi (4538 m asl) (sometimes written as Thorung Phedi). Gangapurna the route turns from west to north west and up the natural depression towards the Thorung Pass & the mountains during this natural depression, Annapurna two and Gangapurna.

  • Day 08 – Trek to Kalo pani

    Continue down the Kali Gadaki reaching the previous Thakali commerce centra of Tukuche. because the path continues, the range of mountains country finish and open areas move for evergreen forest and Kalopani (2500m.) From here there area unit spectacular 360 degree views of Dhaulagiri and also the Annapurna high higher.

  • Day 09 – Trek to Hidden Valley

    Getting off the ice mass on top of the bottom camp usually needs a rope, however once over the steep earth walls we tend to area unit in safer and mild country. once a breathless climb to the highest of French mountain pass (5300m,) the views of Hidden valley open out. The broad valley is harking back to Sitsang and Ladakh and then area unit the temperatures, a minimum of -20 degree Centigrade at midnight.

  • Day 10 – Trek to Dhauligiri Base camp

    Soon the rough scrap provides thanks to the sleek ice of the white a part of the ice mass. we have a tendency to climb steady to the rough and chilling however spectacular Dhaulagiri Base Camp.

  • Day 11-13 – Base camp, Sorting of expedition in order to prepared for the higher camp

  • Day 14-38 - Climbing period

  • Day 39 - Concentration at the Base Camp

  • Day 40 - Trek to Yak Kharka

  • Day 41 - Trek to Jomsom

  • Day 42 – Fly back to Kathmandu via Pokhara

  • Day 43 – Kathmandu – Rest day, Leader to visit Govt. office to brief

  • Day 44 – Kathmandu. Evening celebration meal

  • Day 45 – Final departure

Inclusion & Exclusion

Inclusions :

  • Mt. Makalu climbing permit
  • Climbing permits of Mt Dhaulagiri
  • All necessary trekking permits and government fees
  • 4 nights 3 star hotel accommodations in KTM on twin sharing BB basis
  • En route full board camping arrangements
  • All the local transportation as required
  • Necessary numbers of porters to carry expedition loads to and from base camp
  • Cooks and Kitchen boys.
  • Tents at base camp with mattress
  • Dinning tent at BC with accessories
  • All necessary kitchen gears
  • Toilet & Shower tent at base camp
  • Communication/Store tents if necessary
  • Meals and hot drinks at base camp during the expedition
  • Walkie-talkie set with radio base
  • Thuraya Satellite phone in payable basis (per minute $ 3)
  • Solar panel/Generator with accessories at base camp for power supply
  • Gamow/PAC bag at base camp
  • Oxygen with mask set for medical purpose
  • General medical first aid box
  • Insurance of local team members

Exclusions :

  • ALL SERVICES BEYOND BASE CAMP
  • Insurance of member (must cover evacuation and medial cost)
  • Visa & visa extension fees
  • Personal climbing equipments
  • Cost of emergency evacuation
  • Main meals in KTM and personal nature's expenses
  • Summit bonus of Climbing Sherpa
  • Tips to the local staff

Gears

  • Travel/town clothes (can leave extras in hotel in KTM)
  • Sun hat suitable for snow conditions
  • Sunglasses: Category 3 or4, glacier type, UV & polarized are best
  • Snow goggles (as for skiing)
  • Warm (fleece/wool) hat or beanie
  • Fleece scarf or neck gaiter AND balaclava
  • 1-2 pairs of thermal liner gloves
  • Windstopper fleece gloves
  • Heavy mitts with waterproof shell (note: mitts not gloves)
  • T-shirt/long-sleeved shirt
  • 2 Thermal tops
  • Fleece jacket or pullover mid weight
  • Fleece jacket heavy weight
  • INCL Mid-heavy weight down jacket
  • Rain and wind-proof jacket, preferably Gore-Tex
  • Rain and wind-proof pants (best with full side zips)
  • Trekking shorts&/or long pants lightweight
  • 1-2 Thermal long pants
  • Fleece long pants, mid weight
  • Several pair’s socks and underwear
  • Trekking boots – we suggest strong leather boots
  • Warm boots for camp (e.g. sheep skin boots) *Optional but great!
  • Sun screen, zinc cream and lip balm
  • Wash kit (small personal toiletries, nail clippers and pack towel)
  • First aid kit and blister kit
  • Personal medicines including your usual medicines
    AND 1 course each of (usually available in Kathmandu):
  • Respiratory antibiotic (e.g. Amoxycillin)
  • Gastrointestinal antibiotic (e.g. Ciprofloxacin)
  • Gastro treatment (e.g. Imodium)
  • Mild pain killers (e.g. Aspirin/paracetamol/ibuprofen)
  • Throat lozenges
  • Altitude medication (e.g. Diamox)

Day pack 70L – 85L

  • Down suit
  • One sport millet shoes
  • Water containers: minimum 3L: e.g. Nalgene wide mouth bottles 1L + bottles or bladder another 2L capacity
  • INCL Foam sleeping mat
  • An extra sleeping mat (*recommended; e.g. Thermo-Rest or Ridge Rest
  • 1 Summit down sleeping bag for high camps
  • INCL Sleeping bag for base camp and trek use
  • Water-proof bag for sleeping bag (e.g. dry bag or robust plastic bag(s))
  • Head lamp (we suggest Black Diamond with LED), spare batteries
  • Pee bottle β€” wide mouth Nalgenes are good *Optional
  • Crampons Alpine style with rapid-fix bail type to suit your boots (e.g. Black Diamond Sabretooth)
  • Gaiters (for snow) appropriate to your plastic & trekking boots
  • Adjustable trekking pole(s)
  • Ice axe: one only, 65-75cm in length
  • Climbing harness with a belay loop, adjustable leg loops
  • Belay/Abseiling gear: e.g. Black Diamond ATC
  • Ascender e.g. Petzl expedition ascender
  • 2 Non-locking carabineers
  • 2 Locking carabineers (wide gate preferred)
  • INCL Group medical kit (for altitude illness, trauma, reserve antibiotics); emergency oxygen and portable altitude chamber
  • INCL Satellite phone (pay for air time used: USD /minute)
  • INCL Sleeping tents, dining tent, all cooking and eating equipment & food on trek/climb
  • INCL 240VAC generatorat BC to recharge camera batteries
  • INCL Barrel or duffle bag for transporting personal gear by Yak and truck
  • INCL Climbing ropes, fixed safety ropes
  • INCL Snow anchors, ice anchors, rock anchors, v-thread cord
  • R: This item is available to rent
  • INCL: This item included in package
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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Triumph Expeditions trip web pages and pdf info packs have lots of info about each specific adventure (search for your adventure here). You may also like to look at our photo galleries or videos for a taste of adventure or download a wallpaper to inspire you at your computer. This page has answers to some more general Frequently Asked Questions (FAQS) about climbing.

As all of our mountain climbing adventures begin with a trek, you might also like to look at the Trekking FAQs.

If you have other questions, please ask our friendly team, by email, phone, and Skype.

A) The level of experience and skills required depends on your particular goal (search for your adventure here). We suggest that people undertaking the first climb should have had at least overnight trekking experience. For those who wish to take on a technically difficult, remote or extreme altitude mountain we’d expect participants to have appropriate experience and skills. Some ideas for preparing for climbing goals are given at the bottom of this page.

A) There are many reasons that might make a guided expedition attractive even for experienced climbers. These include someone else taking care of all those details (including thing as diverse as booking and confirming hotels, checking the number of evening snacks, ensuring reliable support, transport, permits, visas, team members, gear, etc etc etc etc). This saves your time and energy for the part that really matters – working on achieving your goal. The high levels of support and experience aim to give you the best possible opportunity to succeed, a high level of risk management, and the Triumph Expeditions leaders and staff are there for YOU!

A) Climbing expeditions usually attract people in their twenties to fifties. Participants tend to be seeking a good quality, safe, well supported, good value and enjoyable adventure rather than the lowest cost.

A) The fitter you are, the more fun you (and your companions) will have. You will find guidance on preparing for your expedition on each adventure’s web page (search here), our info packs and trip dossiers. A minimum level of fitness would have you being able to walk all day on uneven, hilly ground, carrying your day pack, and be able to get up again the next day. Many climbs will require a higher level of fitness and strength so you can carry heavy gear to high camps and really exert yourself on summit day.

A) Included are individual sleeping tents for the trekking phase of most climbing expeditions, with dining and kitchen tents. On the mountain, participants share serious, proven mountain tents. Climbing teams are equipped with emergency communications and first aid equipment as well as more prosaic things like climbing and cooking gear. There is a detailed gear list for each adventure which outlines what we provide as well as what you should bring. (Search here for specific adventures and download the info pack.)

A) Food arrangements are specific to each adventure, but you get three meals a day while on the track. In cities included is breakfast and, depending on the trip and the nature of the activities may also cater for lunch and dinner for the group. In the Himalayas, the kitchen staffs have been training for years and work magic over gas or kero stoves in their kitchen tent.

While trekking the cooks prepare a varied menu of wholesome, tasty and plentiful food using fresh ingredients where possible. A trekking breakfast in the Himalayas usually includes cooked foods e.g. eggs, tomatoes, cereal or porridge, toast & spreads and fruit and a selection of hot drinks.
Lunch is often soup and a packed lunch, or a cooked lunch. Dinners are generally soup, the main meal (one of many Asian or European style dishes) veges, and a dessert (fruit to custard to baked apple pie!) Drinking water: will be provided at camps (collected with care, filtered, treated with chemicals and/or boiled), and at lunchtime where possible. It is wise to carry a small amount of purifying chemicals (e.g. Iodine or chlorine) with you, in case you happen to need water at an odd time. In the developing world, care should be taken to avoid untreated water and potentially contaminated foods like uncooked salads and some fruit. Bottled water is available in cities, but of course, you can treat tap water in your own bottle too.
On the hill, we eat easy to prepare food, often prepared by the team with assistance from guides and staff: freeze-dried foods, crackers, soups, snacks etc. On big mountains it is often a challenge to eat, so we provide foods to tempt your appetite and give you sustenance.

A) The short answer – you! All participants are expected to behave in a responsible manner, taking due care of themselves and others. Your expedition leader is responsible for the group including participants and staff. He or she will advise, manage and assist everyone, sometimes with the support of an expedition first aider or doctor, and will be assisted by guides, sherpas, and you and your climbing colleagues, all of whom will have roles to play.

A) Despite the best precautions, people do sometimes fall ill, sprain something or develop symptoms of AMS. Our expedition leaders will manage your care keeping in mind what’s best for you and the rest of the group. Precautions include first aid qualifications and kits, emergency communications, evacuation plans, your travel insurance cover and our pre-preparation and medical advisors.

A) AMS Acute Mountain Sickness (or altitude sickness) is the body reacting to the stress of high altitude. It is a concern for trekkers in the Himalayas and elsewhere above about approximately; say (is that enough vagueness!) 3,000m. Exposure to high altitude can lead to a number of ‘normal’ physiological reactions as well as mild to extremely serious illness and even death. The treks are designed with acclimatization schedules, rest days and alternative options. And there are medications and a number of management strategies in place should they be required. Don’t be unduly concerned, but please talk to us if you have questions.

A) The adventures are designed around what we feel is the optimum itinerary, which incorporates adequate time for the suitably fit participant to do the climb comfortably; flexibility for weather, illness, unforeseen delays; time to enjoy the experience, your climbing colleagues and staff; learn about your surroundings if you wish; and, for altitude adventures, a fairly slow acclimatisation regime to minimise the risk of altitude sickness and maximise your chance of reaching your goals. All while also trying to minimise your time away from home. We would generally not recommend shorter itineraries (such as those used by less scrupulous operators) unless you were genuinely prepared to turn back if you (or your travel companion) becomes affected by AMS. If you really don’t have the time available, we can perhaps suggest an alternative itinerary or goal that will work for you.

A) Your friend, spouse, family, colleagues may like to join you on the trekking phases the expedition, and could stay in Base Camp or Advanced Base Camp, depending on the trip, when you are on the hill. If they want to accompany you to our base city (e.g. Kathmandu) we can easily arrange extra accommodation and places on our day tours, but we may also be able to arrange a series of day trips, a short relaxing trip into the country-side, scenic flights above the Himalayas, wildlife safaris and so on. Ask us for ideas, or suggest your own.

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