Advance Base Camp (6400 meters)

As soon as the team will be at Chinese base camp (5500 meters), you can see the already set up tents. You can stay at BC 4, 5 & 6 days depending on per your physical fitness but during your stay at BC get prepared your personal climbing equipment & necessary clothes in order to take to the ABC. If the client feels OK, no problem with high altitude then the team should head to Advance base camp alone with necessary no of yaks. Our in charge of the expedition will prepare the required no of yaks. It will take 2 days from the BC to reach ABC. The first night you will have overnight rest at middle camp where we have permanent camping accommodation with necessary logistic arrangements like a sleeping bag, sleeping mattress, foods & accommodation facilities. Next morning you can make a day trip to ABC (6400 meters). The advance base camp is the place where expedition members can spend most of the time of the expedition. During the stay at ABC, clients can gain more acclimatized & able to make the trip to the higher camps.

Camp 1 (North Col) 7000 meter: Climbing sherpas will take the necessary food, drinks & tents etc. to the north col before client reach to the there. After spending a couple of night at North Col, Expedition members will return to ABC or BC for rest & acclimatized.

Camp 2 emergency camp (7500 meters): The Climbing Sherpa will carry the necessary loads to the 7500. Now clients should move to 7500 from ABC, first night at NC & next night to 7300 & morning back to ABC & tenting accommodation will be ready there. A client should spend a night at 7300 in order to be acclimatized. After spending a night then expedition member will back to ABC directly. Some member will back BC as well. The way from camp 2 to Camp 3 is rocky & terrain, but not so difficult. But sometime, the speed wind will be the problem. From camp 2 to 3 is the main windy section.

Camp 3, 7700 meters: After passing the windy & rocky section, you will be at Camp 3 (7700 meters). Here again, sherpa takes the loads & set up the camps before client reach there. Here again from ABC to NC on the first night, next night at 7700, next morning to up to 7900 & direct back to NC/ABC. Sherpa provides you with the boiled water/tea/coffee & served the individual pack foods (High altitude food) in the high camps. Walking from the camp 3 to 4, the route is mixed up like snow angle, rocky & some difficulty area as well. Here too the speedy wind will hit you. Clients should go up to 7700/7900 and had overnight for an acclimatized purpose.

Camp 4 (8300 meters): This is your last camp from where the summit attempt can be made. The team of Sherpas will take all the necessary loads to the camp 4 including the required numbers of oxygen for the summit bit.

SUMMIT ATTEMPTS

After all the camps are established and all our supplies are in place, we return to Base Camp for a rest. At Base Camp, we will organize our summit teams and prepare ourselves for summit attempts. Taking a good rest & looking the good weather summit window. The first night go for middle camp or direct to ABC, 2nd night go for Advance base camp & stay 2 nights or more to take good rest, 5th night go for North Col, 6th night go for 7700, day 7th go for 8300, the same night go for the summit attempt. Normally the summit attempt starts from the night time 9, 10 or 11 pm. So that you will be at the TOP next morning time. On the way to the summit you have to cross the 1st, 2nd & 3rd step then only you are able to stand at the & technical part before summit attempt, you should be very careful about your full climbing gears, Oxygen & mask regulator set & in each step you must be careful yourself.

Once the climbers ascend the 3rd step, they slowly and laboriously proceed to the summit at 29,028 feet. The summit sits at the top of the world. Though not the closest place to the sun due to the earth’s curve, it is the highest peak on earth. Due to the decreased air pressure, the summit contains less than one-third of the oxygen as at sea level. If dropped off at the summit directly from sea level (impossible in reality), a person would die within minutes. Typically, climbers achieving the great summit will take pictures, gain their composure, briefly enjoy the view, and then return to Camp IV as quickly as possible. The risk of staying at the summit and the exhaustion from achieving the summit is too great to permit climbers to fully enjoy the great accomplishment at that moment.

As most readers of this page know, the return trip can be even more dangerous than the climb to the summit.

However successful attempt to the summit of Mt Everest, even your mission is not complete. You still have had challenges left to be done which is decent down to BC safely, probably you can decent to North Col on the first night, then ABC, BC. Only at this stage, the mission Mt Everest is complete. Packing the expedition stuffs then drive back to KTM.

As always, weather plays a major part in all actual summit attempts. We will try as many summit attempts as safely possible as our goal is to put the maximum number of people on the summit. Guides and Sherpa will accompany all summit attempts and oxygen will be used.

Expedition Highlights

• Climb with one among the top 5 Mountaineering expedition organizing company in the Himalayas (30% of the total Everest expedition in the year 2010 was logistically organized by Triumph Expeditions, and 85% success oriented that year with no any tragic incidents)
• Climb the world’s highest peak, Mt. Everest
• Climb Mt. Everest from the North Ridge Normal route
• Climb Mt Everest with experienced Sherpa Guides and climbing sherpas, who have climbed Everest more than 10 times.
• 7 days Scenic drive to some of the world’s highest motor-able road in Tibet
• Experience the unique culture of the Tibetan plateau and its people.
• Expert & experienced Cooking Crews during the expedition
• Nice, Friendly & Comfortable logistic arrangements
• Best quality logistics through out the expedition.

Is it right for me?
Fitness

To reach the summit of Everest (29,035’/8850m) you must be in top physical, emotional, and psychological condition. Benchmarks for physical conditioning include successful previous trips above 20,000′ whenever possible, during which you will have gained experience dealing with gear and equipment, handling extremely cold temperatures and extreme altitude, gaining solid cramponing skills both on and off the rock, snow and ice, rappelling with a pack on, and using ascenders and jumars on a fixed line. In addition to solid alpine living, snow, and ice climbing skills, you need significant strength endurance, high-altitude tolerance, and strong cardiovascular conditioning.

Experience

We are looking for experienced climbers, for whom Everest is the next logical step in their climbing careers. Our team will be in top physical condition and ready to meet the extreme challenges Everest presents. If at all possible, we request that potential Everest climbers participate in one of our other domestic or international climbs. Moreover, the participant must have the knowledge about the previous mountaineering expedition including the mountaineering skill development basic & advance training plus well shill to use climbing hard wear gears such as crampons, jumars, prussiks, abseiling. Moving past knots, anchors etc.

It is important that a team member be able to work well with people and be willing to commit to a group effort which will last for several weeks. You will be exposed to a completely different culture during the expedition. Being the expedition team member, it is your responsibility to treat the people and their environment with respect. This ability is as important as your climbing skills. Our object is successful & safety summit attempt, sometimes on the tough climbing days, you may think, you have been away from home for an extended period of time is highly important. Be determined to finish what you have begun, trained for and set as a goal. Mountains are beautiful places but not every minute of every day is sunshine & roses. Therefore while on the climbing the mountains focus on your goal & try to be mentally free. Our sherpa support looks after your requirements & guide you but you need to be honest and realistic with yourself and your team members.

Accommodation and Food

In Kathmandu: We will be staying at the Shanker Hotel (4 stars). This charming historic palace has a huge peaceful garden with a pool and is just on the edge of the main tourist area, Thamel.

It is safe and clean and well staffed and is a safe place to leave your clean town clothes and other gear when you are in the hills. There are many restaurants in Kathmandu catering to western tastes as well as plenty of local Dahl Bhat (rice and lentils) shops at very reasonable prices.

On the Trek: We will stay in lodges before getting to the Basecamp and enjoy full camping style services onwards (cook, kitchen hands, morning tea to your tent door, camp sherpas to help with equipment, porters, yaks etc). Some of our head cooks have been with us since 1995 and has picked up Thai curries, Italian pastas and a whole host of other dishes, which are very welcoming at the end of a good days trekking. We also have cooked breakfasts and cooked lunches where possible.

On the Mountain: We will use specialized mountaineering tents for our brief stays up high. Food will be prepared by your guide and Sherpas and will be more basic than you might expect at home.

Note: Every lodging service in Tibet is very basic and the meals are all Chinese. So for few days prior to Basecamp, you have no choice but to go with the Chinese food.

When to go?

Autumn season (Sept-Nov) being the best season for climbing, offers excellent weather and tantalizing mountain views, and also the best season for peak climbing.

Summer months (June-September) of the year which coincides with monsoon begins in mid-June and drains in mid-September making travel wet and warm. The mountain views may not be at their best as rain clouds and haze overhang the mountains occasionally obscuring the enchanting views. These times are blessed for the keen botanist as the higher valleys and meadows blossom with flowers and lush vegetation.

Spring season (March-May) is the expedition season and the best time for climbing the high peaks. It is mildly warm at lower elevations but occasional haze mars the beautiful view of mountains. At higher elevations over 4,000 meters, the mountain views are excellent and the temperature is quite moderate even at night. Spring season is known to be the Everest season.

Winter season (December-February) is noted for cold weather with occasional snowfall at higher elevations. Again, excellent views are common. These months are popular and ideal for trekking for those who are well equipped or who remain at lower elevations below 3,000 meters. Most of the hotel owners will come to the lower altitude cities like Kathmandu and Pokhara.

Currency

The unit of the Nepalese Currency is Rupee. One Nepali Rupee is made up of 100 paise. Nepali Rupee notes come in Rs. 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 25, 50, 100, 500 and 1,000. Coins come in paisa 5,10,25,50 Rs. 1, 2, 5 denominations. Paisa coins are not currently used for common transactions.

Foreign currency and traveller cheques can easily be exchanged at banks or authorized agents. In Kathmandu, banks have money exchange counters, which are quick and convenient.

MasterCard, Visa and American Express are accepted at all major Hotels, Travel Agencies, Restaurants and Stores. Only the first two though, are currently accepted at banks for money advances. As from August 2000 ATM services are available in Kathmandu.

In the cities, and specially while trekking, change for Rs500 and Rs1000 bills are not easily available.

Banking

Banks are open between 10:00 A.M. to 2:30 p.m., Sunday to Thursdays and between 10:00 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. on Fridays. Closed on Saturdays and national holidays. Some Banks in Thamel, Kathmandu are open till late.

Travel Insurance

We recommend cancellation insurance to protect your investment. We require participants to have travel insurance that covers medical expenses, Chopper evacuation and repatriation. Please ensure that your chosen policy provides cover for the activities (trekking and mountaineering with ropes and guides) and in the localities in which you will travel (Nepal, to elevations up to 8848m/ 29028ft above sea level).

You may already have your own policy but if not you will need to put something in place. Your nationality will determine what options are available to you to cover this trip. For example, the British and New Zealand Mountaineering Clubs provide cover for locals; Australians can look into Insure for less with the appropriate extensions to the standard policy. Whatever policy you take out, you must ensure that covers the activities you will undertake on this trip.

Note: There are no any Heli rescue services available inside Tibet and are mostly done by land transportation. Nepal heli rescue can only get up to the border of Nepal and Tibet at Kodari/Tatopani.

Illness & Evacuation

Most of our adventures in the Himalaya take us to remote regions of high altitude. We always take our time to acclimatize properly and we allow for additional rest days. While most people may experience minor ill effects from high altitudes, there are some who have persistent symptoms, which require the return to a lower altitude or emergency evacuation. Adjusting to a new diet can also take some time.

All clients are required to have travel insurance covering emergency rescue, usually by helicopter. We must stress that this kind of evacuation occurs in a life or death situation only. Rest and/or descent to a lower altitude are the best remedies for most illnesses experienced out on the trail. Circumstances differ, and the head guide with regard to treatment and itinerary will evaluate each situation. Considering the ill person condition, if helicopter evacuation required then just coordinate with your guide, he can talk to us, we will arrange the fastest evacuation system immediately. We will work with you to accommodate your needs and requests to the best of our ability. There are small, limited health clinics in some areas, hours of operation dependent upon the season. Additional costs incurred in cases of illness are not the responsibility of mine or will be charged as an extra cost.