MT. Lhotse Expedition

MT. Lhotse Expedition

  • ALTITUDE – 8,516m/27,939ft
  • TRIP Best Season – Spring season
  • Trip Duration – 45 Days


Mt. Lhotse (8,516m/27,939ft) peak is the part of Everest Massif. The first attempt for Mt. Lhotse was made by an international team in the year 1955. The first successful ascent of this mountain was in 1956 by F. Luchsinger & E.Reiss of Swiss from the West Face.

The primary route Lhotse is via Everest’s South Col. The base camp & Climbing route up to camp III of MT. Lhotse & Mt. Everest is same. The climbing route of Mt. Lhotse is separated by the route of Mt Everest between the part of South Col and Camp III.

Expedition Highlights

Experience 4th highest peak and technically and physiologically challenging climb.
Stunning views of the Everest and its massif.
Climb shoulder to shoulder with the experience Everest climbers.
Climb Everest all the way up to Juniper spur.
Enjoy the most thrilling part of crossing the Khumbu Icefall.
Test of skills and physiology for Everest attempt in the future.
Experience your first 8000m climb on relatively safe route
Test for psychological endurance
Exploring Sherpa villages, meet the Sherpa people, visit more than 200 years old Tyangboche and Pangboche monastery.
Passing through Namche Bazaar (gateway to Mt. Everest)

Expedition Highlights

  • Experience 4th highest peak and technically and physiologically challenging climb.
  • Stunning views of the Everest and its massif.
  • Climb shoulder to shoulder with the experience Everest climbers.
  • Climb Everest all the way up to Juniper spur.
  • Enjoy the most thrilling part of crossing the Khumbu Icefall.
  • Test of skills and physiology for Everest attempt in the future.
  • Experience your first 8000m climb on relatively safe route
  • Test for psychological endurance
  • Exploring Sherpa villages, meet the Sherpa people, visit more than 200 years old Tyangboche and Pangboche monastery.
  • Passing through Namche Bazaar (gateway to Mt. Everest)

Is it right for me?

To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter-walker-climber in good health. Prior to joining our group, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude, and also for exotic locales.


Previous mountaineering experience is required to at least 6000m. You will also need to be very determined. It’s a very technical peak among all other 8000meters mountain.

To succeed you will need to be extremely fit and have a high level of endurance. You don’t need to be fast but you need to be steady and strong. Mental toughness plays a large role as does the ability to relax and let your body acclimatise.


This expedition introduces you to high altitude trekking. A spirit of adventure and a willingness to stretch your horizons are what you’ll need. Some experience of hiking will be an advantage.

Why go with Triumph Expeditions?
Our style

On this Lhotse Expedition, your Expedition guide will be a qualified Nepalese mountaineering guide. They are there to ensure your expedition a wonderful, fun and safe experience. Measurement of safety is our foremost priority.

Most of our climbing guide and climbing sherpas are very well trained and have at least climbed Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Everest, and other renowned mountains few times.

Your accomplished and friendly expedition guide will help you to enjoy and appreciate the cultural, and natural attractions of the region. They will assist with daily arrangements as you eat in and stay in the tents. The package uses a steady acclimatisation program and allows time for bad weather along the way, giving participants the maximum chance of success.

The expedition itinerary is well planned, well led, and well resourced with good quality food, transport, equipment, first aid and communications.

Accommodation and Food

In Kathmandu: We will be staying at the Shanker Hotel (4 star). This charming historic palace has a huge peaceful garden with a pool and is just on the edge of the main tourist area, Thamel.

It is safe and clean and well staffed, and is a safe place to leave your clean town clothes and other gear when you are in the hills. There are many restaurants in Kathmandu catering to western tastes as well as plenty of local Dahl Bhat (rice and lentils) shops at very reasonable prices.

On the Trek: We will stay in lodges for some of the trip and will also enjoy full camping style service (cook, kitchen hands, morning tea to your tent door, camp sherpas to help with equipment, porters, yaks etc). Some of our head cook has been with us since 1995 and has picked up Thai curries, Italian pastas and a whole host of other dishes, which are very welcoming at the end of a good days trekking. We also have cooked breakfasts and cooked lunches where possible.

On the Mountain: We will use specialized mountaineering tents for our brief stays up high. Food will be prepared by your guide and Sherpas and will be more basic than you might expect at home.

When to go?

Autumn season (Sept-Nov) being the best season for climbing peaks, offers excellent weather and tantalizing mountain views, and also best season for peak climbing.

Summer months (June-September) of the year which coincides with monsoon begins in mid-June and drains in mid-September making travel wet and warm. The mountain views may not be at their best as rain clouds and haze overhang the mountains occasionally obscuring the enchanting views. These times are blessed for the keen botanist as the higher valleys and meadows blossom with flowers and lush vegetation.

Spring season (March-May) is the expedition season and the best time for climbing the high peaks. It is mildly warm at lower elevations but occasional haze mars the beautiful view of mountains. At higher elevations over 4,000 meters, the mountain views are excellent and the temperature is quite moderate even at night. Recommended season for Kanchenjunga Expedition.

Winter season (December-February) is noted for cold weather with occasional snowfall at higher elevations. Again, excellent views are common. These months are popular and ideal for trekking for those who are well equipped or who remain at lower elevations below 3,000 meters. Most of the hotel owners will come to the lower altitude cities like Kathmandu and Pokhara.

Although Travel in Nepal can be organized throughout the year, October through May is considered to be the best months for trekking.


The unit of the Nepalese Currency is Rupee. One Nepali Rupee is made up of 100 paise. Nepali Rupee notes come in Rs. 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 25, 50, 100, 500 and 1,000. Coins come in paisa 5,10,25,50 Rs. 1, 2, 5 denominations. Paisa coins are not currently used for common transactions.

Foreign currency and traveller cheques can easily be exchanged at banks or authorized agents. In Kathmandu, banks have money exchange counters, which are quick and convenient.

MasterCard, Visa and American Express are accepted at all major Hotels, Travel Agencies, Restaurants and Stores. Only the first two though, are currently accepted at banks for money advances. As from August 2000 ATM services are available in Kathmandu.

In the cities, and specially while trekking, change for Rs500 and Rs1000 bills are not easily available.


Banks are open between 10:00 A.M. to 2:30 p.m., Sunday to Thursdays and between 10:00 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. on Fridays. Closed on Saturdays and national holidays. Some Banks in Thamel, Kathmandu are open till late.

Travel Insurance

We recommend cancellation insurance to protect your investment. We require participants to have travel insurance that covers medical expenses, Chopper evacuation and repatriation. Please ensure that your chosen policy provides cover for the activities (trekking and mountaineering with ropes and guides) and in the localities in which you will travel (Nepal, to elevations up to 8848m/ 29028ft above sea level).

You may already have your own policy but if not you will need to put something in place. Your nationality will determine what options are available to you to cover this trip. For example, the British and New Zealand Mountaineering Clubs provide cover for locals; Australians can look into Insure for less with the appropriate extensions to the standard policy. Whatever policy you take out, you must ensure that covers the activities you will undertake on this trip.

Illness & Evacuation

Most of our adventures in the Himalaya take us to remote regions of high altitude. We always take our time to acclimatize properly and we allow for additional rest days. While most people may experience minor ill effects from high altitudes, there are some who have persistent symptoms, which require the return to a lower altitude or emergency evacuation. Adjusting to a new diet can also take some time.

All clients are required to have travel insurance covering emergency rescue, usually by helicopter. We must stress that this kind of evacuation occurs in a life or death situation only. Rest and/or descent to a lower altitude are the best remedies for most illnesses experienced out on the trail. Circumstances differ, and the head guide with regard to treatment and itinerary will evaluate each situation. Considering the ill person condition, if helicopter evacuation required then just coordinate with your guide, he can talk to us, we will arrange the fastest evacuation system immediately. We will work with you to accommodate your needs and requests to the best of our ability. There are small, limited health clinics in some areas, hours of operation dependent upon the season. Additional costs incurred in cases of illness are not the responsibility of mine or will be charged as an extra cost.


  • Day 01 – Arrival in Kathmandu & transfer to hotel

    After finishing your custom formalities (Visa, etc) obtain your bags and appearance for our representative with a Triumph Expeditions display panel at the gate. you may be then transferred to your Hotel. Once sign up, you may visit HGT workplace, meet your trekking guide likewise as different participants and do final preparation for the trip. Later in the evening, there’ll be a welcome dinner which can introduce you to the Nepalese food culture.

  • Day 02 – Half day sightseeing and evening equipment preparation

    Take rest, inform, and create a look tour to Kathmandu’s World Heritage Sites. we have a tendency to create a guided tour to a number of UN agency World Heritage Sites within the Kathmandu vale. The day also will be for finalizing office work and alternative necessary arrangements. you may be conjointly briefed on the character of expedition, instrumentation and team composition. you’ll conjointly create your minute shopping for of non-public things.

  • Day 03 – Kathmandu; final preparation for trek

  • Day 04 – Fly Lukla, trek to Phakding

    An early morning scenic flight to Lukla. The mountain flight over to Lukla is during all one in every of the foremost stunning air routes within the world culminating in a dramatic landing on an incline enclosed by high mountains peaks. In Lukla, we are going to meet our camp employees and porters.After meeting our alternative crew members and with some packing and arrangements, we have a tendency to begin our trek through the prosperous village of Lukla till we have a tendency to reach Phakding. Phakding lies on the most trade route through an area and there are a variety of unpolluted well-built lodges wherever we will pay the night.

  • Day 05 – Trek to Namche Bazaar

    Continue up the banks of the Dudh Kosi, crossing it doubly by tiny suspension bridges before reaching the village of Monjo wherever we’ll enter the Khumbu parkland. Cross the confluence of the Dudh Kosi and therefore the Bhote Kosi on a high bridge and climb steeply for regarding 2 hours to achieve Namche Bazaar.

  • Day 06 – Namche. Rest day/Side trip to Syanbouche/Thame

    We pay on a daily basis in Namche Bazar resting and permitting our bodies to become acclimatized to the altitude of three,450m (11,300ft).Although a leisure day, it is important to not stay idle. Health consultants invariably suggest North American nation remain active and moving throughout the remainder day too rather than being idle. we have a tendency to either pay the day taking on a daily basis hike to Thame or visiting Khunde or reposeful and exploring Namche Bazaar itself. Namche Bazaar is that the main centre of the Mount Everest (Khumbu) region and has government offices, ATMs, web cafes, shops, restaurants, a work and a colourful market every Friday evening and Sat. If we have a tendency to trek a couple of hundred vertical feet throughout the day, it’ll facilitate North The North American nation to properly adapt.

  • Day 07 – Trek to Tengboche

    The well-worn mountain peak path contours around the aspect of the vale high higher than the Dudh Kosi. Follow the trail, relishing the primary specialized views of the nice peaks of the Khumbu: mountain peak, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. Passing by many villages and diverse tea outlets, cross the Dudh Kosi watercourse and create a steep climb to Tengboche, home of a powerful and new restored religious residence.

  • Day 08 – Trek to Dingboche

    We suffer many Chortens and Mani walls and little villages. we tend to fancy lunch with fantastic close-up views of Ama-Dablam. Shaded by shrub trees, the trail leads step by step all the way down to the watercourse all over again to a different ethereal bridge. AN hour’s walking from here brings America to Pangboche, a wonderful viewpoint for Ama Dablam. Contouring up the vale aspect, re-cross the watercourse and switch up the Imja Valley to achieve the picturesque farming village of Dingboche.

  • Day 09 – Dingboche. Rest day

    Dingboche may be a smart location for rest. The team leader can organize daily outings to the adjacent hills with the aim of providing gradual acclimation. Walk a number of the near hills so as to slowly increase exposure to altitude. Follow the regime that you simply have antecedently found most fitted, so as to convey you most acclimatize before arriving in base camp.

  • Day 10 – Trek to Lobuche

    Retrace back to Pheriche before continued up the path towards base camp. Reach Dugla set below the snout of the Khumbu ice mass, a convenient place for lunch. once lunch, the path starts steeply to climb up beside the ice mass earth. once one or two of hours the track eventually results in a little cluster of tea homes pleasantly set at Lobuche.

  • Day 11 – Trek to Gorekshep

    A 3-4 hour walk next to the Khumbu ice mass brings The U.S.A. to the crossing of the Changri ice mass to Gorak Shep. you’re welcome to require a classic evening ascent of Kala Patar (5554m) to catch a classic sunset read of Mount Everest.

  • Day 12 – Trek Everest Base Camp

    Leaving Gorak Shep, the path leads on to the ground of the Khumbu ice mass and becomes quite imprecise, weaving between mounds of detritus and eventually reaching base camp close to the foot of the Khumbu ice. this can be our home for subsequent six weeks.

  • Day 13 to 38 – Mt. Lhotse climbing period

  • Day 39 – Trek to Pheriche

  • Day 40 – Trek to Tengbouche

  • Day 41 – Trek to Monjo

  • Day 42 – Trek to Lukla

  • Day 43 – Fly back to Kathmandu

  • Day 44 – Free day in Kathmandu.

  • Day 45 – Fly back to home.

Inclusion & Exclusion

Inclusions :

  • Mt. Lhotse climbing permit
  • Khumbu Icefall charge
  • 5 (five) nights hotel in Kathmandu on BB basis.
  • Flight to and from Lukla.
  • Domestic custom clearances,
  • Excess baggage and domestic airport taxes
  • Necessary number of porters/yak to carry full expedition loads
  • Liaison officer charge
  • One head Sardar
  • Cooks and Kitchen boys.
  • Private tent at Basecamp with mattress
  • Triumph Expeditions sleeping bag & Down jacket for BC purpose
  • Dining tent at BC with gas heaters
  • All necessary kitchen gears
  • Toilet & shower tent at base camp
  • Full board accommodation, all meals at Base camp & during trekking in & our from BC
  • Walkie-talkie set with radio base
  • Satellite phone in payable basis (per minute $ 3)
  • Solar panel/generator with accessories at base camp for recharging & lighting
  • Gammov bag at base camp
  • Oxygen with mask set for medical purpose at base camp
  • Daily wages, equipment bonus of staff + LO
  • Insurance of local team members + LO
  • All airport transport
  • Celebration meal in Kathmandu
  • Half day sightseeing in Kathmandu

Exclusions :

  • Insurance of member
  • Visa & visa extension fees
  • Personal climbing equipment
  • Cost of emergency evacuation
  • Summit bonus of Climbing Sherpa
  • Tips & Services above BC


  • Travel/town clothes (can leave extras in hotel in KTM)
  • Sun hat suitable for snow conditions
  • Sunglasses: Category 3 or4, glacier type, UV & polarized are best
  • Snow goggles (as for skiing)
  • Warm (fleece/wool) hat or beanie
  • Fleece scarf or neck gaiter AND balaclava
  • 1-2 pairs of thermal liner gloves
  • Windstopper fleece gloves
  • Heavy mitts with waterproof shell (note: mitts not gloves)
  • T-shirt/long-sleeved shirt
  • 2 Thermal tops
  • Fleece jacket or pullover mid weight
  • Fleece jacket heavy weight
  • INCL Mid-heavy weight down jacket
  • Rain and wind-proof jacket, preferably Gore-Tex
  • Rain and wind-proof pants (best with full side zips)
  • Trekking shorts&/or long pants lightweight
  • 1-2 Thermal long pants
  • Fleece long pants, mid weight
  • Several pair’s socks and underwear
  • Trekking boots – we suggest strong leather boots
  • Warm boots for camp (e.g. sheep skin boots) *Optional but great!
  • Sun screen, zinc cream and lip balm
  • Wash kit (small personal toiletries, nail clippers and pack towel)
  • First aid kit and blister kit
  • Personal medicines including your usual medicines
    AND 1 course each of (usually available in Kathmandu):
  • Respiratory antibiotic (e.g. Amoxycillin)
  • Gastrointestinal antibiotic (e.g. Ciprofloxacin)
  • Gastro treatment (e.g. Imodium)
  • Mild pain killers (e.g. Aspirin/paracetamol/ibuprofen)
  • Throat lozenges
  • Altitude medication (e.g. Diamox)

Day pack 70L – 85L

  • Down suit
  • One sport millet shoes
  • Water containers: minimum 3L: e.g. Nalgene wide mouth bottles 1L + bottles or bladder another 2L capacity
  • INCL Foam sleeping mat
  • An extra sleeping mat (*recommended; e.g. Thermo-Rest or Ridge Rest
  • 1 Summit down sleeping bag for high camps
  • INCL Sleeping bag for base camp and trek use
  • Water-proof bag for sleeping bag (e.g. dry bag or robust plastic bag(s))
  • Head lamp (we suggest Black Diamond with LED), spare batteries
  • Pee bottle — wide mouth Nalgenes are good *Optional
  • Crampons Alpine style with rapid-fix bail type to suit your boots (e.g. Black Diamond Sabretooth)
  • Gaiters (for snow) appropriate to your plastic & trekking boots
  • Adjustable trekking pole(s)
  • Ice axe: one only, 65-75cm in length
  • Climbing harness with a belay loop, adjustable leg loops
  • Belay/Abseiling gear: e.g. Black Diamond ATC
  • Ascender e.g. Petzl expedition ascender
  • 2 Non-locking carabineers
  • 2 Locking carabineers (wide gate preferred)
  • INCL Group medical kit (for altitude illness, trauma, reserve antibiotics); emergency oxygen and portable altitude chamber
  • INCL Satellite phone (pay for air time used: USD /minute)
  • INCL Sleeping tents, dining tent, all cooking and eating equipment & food on trek/climb
  • INCL 240VAC generatorat BC to recharge camera batteries
  • INCL Barrel or duffle bag for transporting personal gear by Yak and truck
  • INCL Climbing ropes, fixed safety ropes
  • INCL Snow anchors, ice anchors, rock anchors, v-thread cord
  • R: This item is available to rent
  • INCL: This item included in package
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Would you like this trip?

8000M Expeditions - Enquiry

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Triumph Expeditions trip web pages and pdf info packs have lots of info about each specific adventure (search for your adventure here). You may also like to look at our photo galleries or videos for a taste of adventure or download a wallpaper to inspire you at your computer. This page has answers to some more general Frequently Asked Questions (FAQS) about climbing.

As all of our mountain climbing adventures begin with a trek, you might also like to look at the Trekking FAQs.

If you have other questions, please ask our friendly team, by email, phone, and Skype.

A) The level of experience and skills required depends on your particular goal (search for your adventure here). We suggest that people undertaking the first climb should have had at least overnight trekking experience. For those who wish to take on a technically difficult, remote or extreme altitude mountain we’d expect participants to have appropriate experience and skills. Some ideas for preparing for climbing goals are given at the bottom of this page.

A) There are many reasons that might make a guided expedition attractive even for experienced climbers. These include someone else taking care of all those details (including thing as diverse as booking and confirming hotels, checking the number of evening snacks, ensuring reliable support, transport, permits, visas, team members, gear, etc etc etc etc). This saves your time and energy for the part that really matters – working on achieving your goal. The high levels of support and experience aim to give you the best possible opportunity to succeed, a high level of risk management, and the Triumph Expeditions leaders and staff are there for YOU!

A) Climbing expeditions usually attract people in their twenties to fifties. Participants tend to be seeking a good quality, safe, well supported, good value and enjoyable adventure rather than the lowest cost.

A) The fitter you are, the more fun you (and your companions) will have. You will find guidance on preparing for your expedition on each adventure’s web page (search here), our info packs and trip dossiers. A minimum level of fitness would have you being able to walk all day on uneven, hilly ground, carrying your day pack, and be able to get up again the next day. Many climbs will require a higher level of fitness and strength so you can carry heavy gear to high camps and really exert yourself on summit day.

A) Included are individual sleeping tents for the trekking phase of most climbing expeditions, with dining and kitchen tents. On the mountain, participants share serious, proven mountain tents. Climbing teams are equipped with emergency communications and first aid equipment as well as more prosaic things like climbing and cooking gear. There is a detailed gear list for each adventure which outlines what we provide as well as what you should bring. (Search here for specific adventures and download the info pack.)

A) Food arrangements are specific to each adventure, but you get three meals a day while on the track. In cities included is breakfast and, depending on the trip and the nature of the activities may also cater for lunch and dinner for the group. In the Himalayas, the kitchen staffs have been training for years and work magic over gas or kero stoves in their kitchen tent.

While trekking the cooks prepare a varied menu of wholesome, tasty and plentiful food using fresh ingredients where possible. A trekking breakfast in the Himalayas usually includes cooked foods e.g. eggs, tomatoes, cereal or porridge, toast & spreads and fruit and a selection of hot drinks.
Lunch is often soup and a packed lunch, or a cooked lunch. Dinners are generally soup, the main meal (one of many Asian or European style dishes) veges, and a dessert (fruit to custard to baked apple pie!) Drinking water: will be provided at camps (collected with care, filtered, treated with chemicals and/or boiled), and at lunchtime where possible. It is wise to carry a small amount of purifying chemicals (e.g. Iodine or chlorine) with you, in case you happen to need water at an odd time. In the developing world, care should be taken to avoid untreated water and potentially contaminated foods like uncooked salads and some fruit. Bottled water is available in cities, but of course, you can treat tap water in your own bottle too.
On the hill, we eat easy to prepare food, often prepared by the team with assistance from guides and staff: freeze-dried foods, crackers, soups, snacks etc. On big mountains it is often a challenge to eat, so we provide foods to tempt your appetite and give you sustenance.

A) The short answer – you! All participants are expected to behave in a responsible manner, taking due care of themselves and others. Your expedition leader is responsible for the group including participants and staff. He or she will advise, manage and assist everyone, sometimes with the support of an expedition first aider or doctor, and will be assisted by guides, sherpas, and you and your climbing colleagues, all of whom will have roles to play.

A) Despite the best precautions, people do sometimes fall ill, sprain something or develop symptoms of AMS. Our expedition leaders will manage your care keeping in mind what’s best for you and the rest of the group. Precautions include first aid qualifications and kits, emergency communications, evacuation plans, your travel insurance cover and our pre-preparation and medical advisors.

A) AMS Acute Mountain Sickness (or altitude sickness) is the body reacting to the stress of high altitude. It is a concern for trekkers in the Himalayas and elsewhere above about approximately; say (is that enough vagueness!) 3,000m. Exposure to high altitude can lead to a number of ‘normal’ physiological reactions as well as mild to extremely serious illness and even death. The treks are designed with acclimatization schedules, rest days and alternative options. And there are medications and a number of management strategies in place should they be required. Don’t be unduly concerned, but please talk to us if you have questions.

A) The adventures are designed around what we feel is the optimum itinerary, which incorporates adequate time for the suitably fit participant to do the climb comfortably; flexibility for weather, illness, unforeseen delays; time to enjoy the experience, your climbing colleagues and staff; learn about your surroundings if you wish; and, for altitude adventures, a fairly slow acclimatisation regime to minimise the risk of altitude sickness and maximise your chance of reaching your goals. All while also trying to minimise your time away from home. We would generally not recommend shorter itineraries (such as those used by less scrupulous operators) unless you were genuinely prepared to turn back if you (or your travel companion) becomes affected by AMS. If you really don’t have the time available, we can perhaps suggest an alternative itinerary or goal that will work for you.

A) Your friend, spouse, family, colleagues may like to join you on the trekking phases the expedition, and could stay in Base Camp or Advanced Base Camp, depending on the trip, when you are on the hill. If they want to accompany you to our base city (e.g. Kathmandu) we can easily arrange extra accommodation and places on our day tours, but we may also be able to arrange a series of day trips, a short relaxing trip into the country-side, scenic flights above the Himalayas, wildlife safaris and so on. Ask us for ideas, or suggest your own.

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